2008年12月23日 星期二

『全球最愛 50大城市總排行 ─ 2008年版』之四:第20到第11名


因為這裡聖誕節不但不放假,事情還多著呢,導致過去這幾天都沒時間,也沒力氣寫新的東西。節過現在聖誕節都結束了,我的『聖誕節市集 2005』及『聖誕節市集 2006』都還沒刊出。不過『全球最愛 50大城市總排行』倒應該是可以如原計畫地在2008結束前刊完。Okay,廢話少說,我們馬上進入前 20名的倒數。


20. 斯德哥爾摩,瑞典 (Stockholm, Sweden): 三年多沒去了,因此今年名次又掉了一些。斯德哥爾摩也是唯一進入我前 50大的北歐國家都市 (抱歉了,來自哥本哈根的 Jan 及 Claus 以及來自奧斯陸的 Kjersti 及 Nina) 。不過老實說,有『北國的威尼斯』(Venice of North) 的 斯德哥爾摩本來就是北歐最美的城市,處處是水光小橋。雖然物價蠻高的,可是治安好,大眾交通系統方便,大家都會說英文,因此旅遊起來非常容易。剛好在美國 研究所時一個很要好的瑞典同學,後來結婚了就定居在斯德哥爾摩,因此以後為了探友,又多了去斯城的藉口。我兩次去都是在六月,天黑得特別晚,不曉得冬天 去,又會是怎樣不同的感受?

2005年夏相簿集:『斯德哥爾摩之一』『斯德哥爾摩之二』


19. 克拉科夫,波蘭 (Krakow, Poland): 波蘭唯一進入 Top 50 的城鎮。也是『東歐三大明珠』(其他兩個是布拉格及布達佩斯)中,我最喜歡的城市。從前的克拉哥夫知名度沒『雙布』來得響亮,所以觀光客沒多到擠死人的地 步。不過這幾年,很明顯地,克拉哥夫受歡迎的程度也趕上了布拉格。現在物價變貴,旅館在旺季也變得難訂得多。會喜歡克拉格夫,甚至在首度拜訪之前就有無盡 嚮往,可能也和波蘭名導奇士勞斯基有關 (Kieslowski)。一直都還記得,『雙面維若妮卡』(Double Lives of Veronica)中,法國及波蘭的兩位維若妮卡,他們人生中唯一的一次相會就是在克拉格夫的『大廣場』(Rynek Glowny)。而我第一次到克拉哥夫,正好是聖誕節前夕,亦對這美麗的大廣場留下難以抹滅的印象。兩次去都是住在『大廣場』東南的 Kazimiez 區。這Kazimiez 區其實正是電影『辛德勒的名單』(Schindler's List)背景所在,是二戰前波蘭最著名的猶太區之一。如今的Kazimiez 區因電影造成猶太文化重新復興,在這裡可以吃到傳統猶太美食,以及音樂歌舞表演。這一帶也因學生不少,有不少簡陋但有趣的夜店。就算出了克拉科夫城區,郊 外可看的的東西也很多,包括鹽礦大教堂,及納粹集中營中最惡名昭彰,也是『辛德勒的名單』中後半段背景所在的 『奧許維茲集中營』(Auschwitz Concentration Camp)。這裡可看的東西很多,反正現在波蘭也在申根範圍簽證之內了,現在去波蘭旅行該更簡捷容易了。 
相關照片介紹: 冬訪克拉哥夫,留連聖誕節市集
以及 其他克拉科夫的冬景照



18. 巴塞隆納,西班牙 (Barcelona, Spain): 西班牙有三個城市在我的 Top 50,其中巴塞隆納排名最高。對去過巴塞隆納的人來說,其實這樣的結果該一點也不意外。光是一堆名建築師高帝 (Antoni Gaudi)蓋的建築就已經令人看得留連忘返了 (尤其是到現在還沒蓋完的『聖家堂』)。不過因為我六年多沒去了 (總共也只去了兩次),現在對巴塞隆納的記憶開始有些退色中‧‧‧

 
17. 舊金山,美國 (San Francisco, USA): 過去曾經是我全球第一名城市 (Yes, formerly No. 1!)的舊金山過去十年來名次也是一直掉,不過這兩年在我心目中感覺回穩,大概就停在第 15名左右。其實舊金山在很多人心目中,就算不是全世界第一,應該也是有前五名的。感覺風景優美無比,又是多元文化融合的舊金山應該名次得再高一些的 (像我住舊金山的美國朋友 Chris就一直覺得我把舊金山排太低了)。不過因為一些不幸的過往,和幾年前住在舊金山灣區那短暫的數月有關,感覺很難把舊金山在我心中的地位重新提高 到從前的境地。Well,再說吧!maybe after keeping my distance for awhile, I will fall in love with SF once again...

舊金山的遊記,將在『2008北美鐵道之旅』的下一篇刊出。

16. 阿姆斯特丹,荷蘭(Amsterdam, Holland - Including nearby towns of Leiden, Delft, Haarlem): 在前十名待了很多年的阿姆斯特丹,今年也是終於掉出了十大。我有很多朋友其實並不喜歡阿姆斯特丹,認為是葷腥不計的人才會特別喜歡那裡。其實,我只是喜歡 在這個弯曲運河處處城市散步,累了就找個地方坐下喝 Amstel 啤酒。其實阿姆斯特丹的博物館也很多。因為有個研究所時很要好的荷蘭同學住萊頓 (Leidon),再加上轉機很容易經過阿姆斯特丹機場,我相信我以後一定有不少重訪阿姆斯特丹的機會。

15. 安提瓜,瓜地馬拉 (Antigua, Guatemala - including nearby Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenango): 瓜地馬拉很明顯地是中美洲七小國最有趣的國家 (而且因為是邦交國,台灣人去免簽證 yay!),有西班牙式古城,馬雅文化遺跡以及尚保存完整的原住民文化,還有一堆火山及特別美麗的火口湖。在瓜地馬拉所有地方,我最喜歡的是故都安提瓜。 其實安提瓜離現在的首都瓜地馬拉市 (Guatemala City)只有一小時的車程,從瓜地馬拉市的國際機場就可搭小巴士前往 (也是一小時左右,非常的方便)。安提瓜人口不多,卻有很多典雅的西班牙殖民式建築,也有市集可以買原住民手工藝品。附近還可以去爬火山。城內也有很多短 期學校可以學西班牙文。由安提瓜往北三小時,就到了風景超級優美的阿提特蘭湖 (Lake/Largo Atitlan) ─ 對我來說,也許是全世紀我看過最美的火口湖了。路上經過的 Chichhicastenango,聽說是全世界最大的馬雅原住民市集。不過瓜地馬拉治安有些不好,大家可能還是得注意一下安全。
相關文章及相簿
瓜地馬拉的舊都安提瓜  
阿提特蘭湖美景
提卡爾 (Tikal) 的馬雅遺跡群

14. 石頭城,尚吉巴,坦尚尼亞聯邦 (Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania): 其實,小島本身是不會放進這 Top 50 的名單的。只有“城”或“鎮”才會放進來 (最愛的『小島』,有另外的名單,以後有機會再公布)。不過因為我也很喜歡 Stone Town,因此石頭城以 stand-alone的身分入榜,而且成了全非洲排名最高的城鎮。若有讀過我非洲遊記的讀者應該知道,我就是在石頭城登陸尚吉巴島,而達到『百國達成』 的一大人生目標的。這裡就不多寫了,有興趣的,可以看看我在尚吉巴的遊記,有可以了解到 why Stone Town is such a special place!


13. 維也納,奧地利 (Vienna, Austria): 前中歐最大帝國『奧匈帝國』(Austro-Hungarian Empire)的首都,如今帝國瓦解快一百年,也散成一堆不同的國家,首都維也納榮耀不再。但因華美的建築,優良的音樂傳統,及德語系國家固有的秩序法 治,使得維也納在我的 Top 50 高居第 13 名,比前奧匈帝國的其他城市,如布拉格,布達佩斯,以及塞拉耶弗都還要高。因明年春天將有機會到維也納出差 (而且可能只有華航可搭),現在對於將重訪維也納,已感到迫不及待了。

12. 西雅圖,美國 (Seattle, USA): 打敗舊金山,成為全美在我 Top 50 排名第二高的都市 (第一高的,你要在前十名才看得到了)。其實同樣有山有水,我一直覺得其實西雅圖比舊金山漂亮,甚至連夏天天氣都比陰風颼颼的舊金山好。雖然是 Starbucks 企業的發源地,因為全城人口嗜喝咖啡,反而 Starbucks 及 Seattle's Best 以外的獨立咖啡店一大堆,要喝咖啡選擇比其他地方都還要多。而且其實,由台北出發,西雅圖其實還比舊金山近,不曉得為什麼一直是舊金山比較受歡迎?


 
11. 布魯塞爾,比利時 (Brussels, Belgium ─ including the nearby towns): 在去年短暫進入了 Top 10一下下,今年又掉出來了。一切都要感謝在西巴爾幹半島之旅認識的比利時好友 Steven,因為他一再邀約,我終於決定在 2006年聖誕節安排了前往布魯塞爾度假。雖然之前我『進出』比利時多次,小時候參加旅行團時還經過比利時,在布魯塞爾市區觀光了三小時。但2006卻是 我首度在布魯塞爾過夜。2007年夾在『非洲之旅』及『第三次巴爾幹半島之旅』之間,又去布魯塞爾住了一星期。因此現在對布魯塞爾算是蠻了解的了。也因為 了 解,才更知道這城市的有趣。雖不如花都巴黎處處是景,或像阿姆斯特丹那麼自由瘋狂,布魯塞爾其實也有很好的博物館及美食餐廳 (包括可以吃一堆“淡菜”的 Chez Leon)。再加上歐盟 (European Union)及北約 (NATO)總部都設在布魯塞爾,使得布魯塞爾其實非常地國際化。當然,比利時聞名全球的兩大特產 ─ 啤酒及巧克力,城內也是處處可買到。而路邊攤的美食,當然是比利時鬆餅 (Belgian Waffles)及薯條了。因為比利時小,以布魯塞爾為基點,要去很多附近的小鎮『一日遊』都很方便,其中,當然包括最受歡迎的布魯日 (Bruges) 了。因為和 Steven 的交情,以後應該還常會有機會拜訪布魯塞爾。
相簿集,嗯,一直沒時間製作‧‧‧
終於,要進入十大了‧‧‧
=============================================================
Yeah, we are approaching Top 10! Am I boring you yet? But before that, these are my No. 11 to No. 20.



20. Stockholm, Sweden: The "Venice of North." Though expensive, it is a really beautiful and also possibly one of the most civilized cities in the world. It also helps that two of my good friends from Harvard now call it home. Come in June, you can enjoy its famous white nights and joyful atmosphere.
 
19. Krakow, Poland: Out of all these newly megapopular former Eastern Bloc cities, this is the only one making it to my Top 20 (Okay, there is another "half" of the Eastern Bloc city making it to my Top 10). In many ways, Krakow is just more understated and charming than Budapest and Prague. It has one of the largest and most lively central squares in Eastern Europe (in which Kieslowski's two Veronicas, from the 1991 movie "Double Lives of Veronica," briefly encounter). While the former Jewish neighborhood Kazimiez (made famous by Steven Spielberg's "Schindler's List") is re-establishing itself as the new Jewish culture center in Central Europe, it also become a nightlife district with endless selection of bars and nightclubs. Nearby, there are several UNESCO sites, including the famous salt mine museum and the most (in)famous NAZI concentration camp of all, Auschwitz. If you are devoted Catholic (as one of my closest friends), you can also visit the late pope John Paul II's childhood home. I have been to this city in both winter and summer and able to enjoy two different kinds of atmosphere.

Photo album: Christmas market in Krakow and Snow-covered city streets of Krakow

18. Barcelona, Spain: Spain has three cities in my Top 50 and this is the highest ranked. Not a surprise, eh? Of course, many people think Barcelona is a little too touristy and the petty crime is way too common (It's true, I was pickpocketed in a bar and almost robbed in a metro, so be careful please), but it is just such a fun place to visit! Wander around town to appreciate Gaudi's buildings (Is Cathedral of Holly Family still unfinished?) and sample its great Basque style tapas, Pinxcho.

17. San Francisco, USA: My former No.1 city now has fallen to only No. 20. Tons of misfortune arose back in 2005, when I moved to its suburb and stayed for a few months. Some of the bitterness remains (in which I don't want to discuss here) but I think I still like San Francisco a lot and do not object to move back some day. It is still heartbreakingly beautiful and the art and restaurant scene are still on top of most US cities. Hopefully, maybe after keeping my distance for awhile, I will fall crazily in love with her once again...

16. Amsterdam, Holland (Including nearby towns of Leiden, Delft, Haarlem): One of the most liberal cities in the world and also the most bicycle friendly. It is quite cultured and sophisticated. Even though I don't smoke marijuana, I can still have good time there on every visit. It also helps that they have one of the best user-friendly airports in the world.
 
15. Antigua, Guatemala (including nearby Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenango): It is that small Spanish colonial town in the mountains, just one hour from ill-reputed Guatemala City (so you can fly to Guatemala City International Airport and head to Antigua directly). This town is small, easy to walk around and has many nice cafe and bars. It also has highest density of Spanish language schools in Guatemala. From here driving only 2 to 3 hours, you can arrive at Lake Atitlan, one of the most beautiful volcanic lakes in the world. In Chichhicastenango, you can shop and haggle at its traditional markets and get many Mayan handicrafts for you next home decoration. Unfortunately, some high profile crime incident earlier in 2007 makes me feel this country has yet to become as safe as it seems. Check your country's safety advisory before you plan your visit....You can view
my photo album of Antigua and My photo album of Lake Atitlan here.

14. Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania: The highest debut destination of 2007, now it has moved into Top 15 and becomes the highest ranked destination among in Africa. What makes it most special was I reached my 100th country right here on Zanzibar, and Stone Town is my entry point to this island (semi-independent) country. The whole town is quite Arabic in atmosphere, yet also very African. Its Islamic dominance also makes it exotic and fascinating. Pay attention to carving on old doors when you wander its narrow alleys. That Saturday night's (the day I reached my 100th country) hip-hop performance in its old fort was especially unforgettable...that was the first time I felt rap music could be that fun and groovy!

13. Vienna, Austria: The capital of formerly largest empire in Central Europe. Though Austria is no longer a superpower as in Hapsburg's Austro-Hungarian Empire, many legacy remains. It is still "Capital of Classic Music" as we people in Asia call it. Also a great gateway to other Eastern European city. It is great to find out that I will have a chance to attend a conference in spring of 2009 in this lovely city....
 
12. Seattle, USA: Another beautiful city by the bay in the US west coast. It is just rainier (and thus more depressing). But, who can resist the charm of Puget Sound, Mt. Rainier, Olympia National Park, hilly streets, serene lakes, and Bill Gates? Okay, just ignore the last one...
 
11. Brussels, Belgium (including the nearby towns): 2006 and 2007 are finally the year that Brussels turning around in my perception because I visited it twice for both Christmas 2006 and summer 2007 (a connection point for my African trip and the Balkan trip). After years of passing through and ignoring this city, the bilingual and multi-cultural Belgian capital finally enters my conscience. Thanks to my Belgian friend (whom I met in the trip tothe Western Balkan in spring 2006). Though overshadowed by the French capital to the south and Dutch capital to the north, Brussels can stand tall as a world class city by itself. And who can resist its great varieties of beer and chocolate? Due to Belgium's small size, it is easily a daytrip to some very charming smaller town like, Gent, Louven, and the best of them all, Bruges.

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