2008年12月31日 星期三

十個我最想去卻還沒去過的地方 - 2008年終版

這幾週花了不少時間把我去過的大城小鎮名單排出來,從第一名排到第五十名。一面排,一面想著過去拜訪或住在這些地方的美好回憶‧‧‧But enough about the past, what about the future? 世界這麼大,怎麼樣也玩不完。我還沒去過的地方中 (Believe me, there are still many, many of them),我最想去的,又是哪些地方?
於是,又到了揭曉我年度『十大夢幻未訪之地』的時候了。
揭曉最新的『十大』名單前,先講一下我目前的狀況。其實現在的我,一直到明年八月中前,是不允許旅行到任何新的國家的。

因為,2007年破百國之旅出發前,我許下『毒誓』:在這趟旅行 (以及緊接下來的巴爾幹半島之旅及阿拉斯加之旅)結束後,兩年內不准再去新的國家了(除非是工作需要)。一定要回到職場做全職的工作,不然將可能遭到天 譴,一輩子都再也找不到自己想要的工作!!也因此,我在2007年八月自阿拉斯加回來後,過去 16個月,都沒有拜訪新的國家。後來很意外地搬到中東,發現這裡離很多從沒去過的地方都好近,像是阿曼,伊朗,黎巴嫩,約旦,敘利亞甚至南亞的印度,斯里 蘭卡及馬爾地夫。剛好過去這幾 個月,回教的農曆假期又特別多。可是這附近的國家,我卻一個也不能去,因為這些都是『未拜訪』國家,都在我禁足名單上。這殘酷的『旅遊大禁』,將一直到 2009年八月中才會結束。
唯一『旅遊大禁』可破例的狀況是:若我的的班機曾在那國家機場停過,就算我沒下飛機,那國家技術上並不算『沒去過的新國家』,因此就算在 2009年八月前,我還是可以去拜訪的。
(不能去新的國家的誓言,其實並不妨礙到我重訪『去過』的國家。也因此,在這兩年的『旅遊大禁』期,我還是有 106 國可以選擇去‧‧‧)

也因此,因為過去 16個月都沒去新的國家,這份 2008年年底版的『十大夢幻未訪之地』名單,和 2007年底的版本,幾乎一模一樣。不過 ,為了不掃大家興,2007年的版本長什麼樣,這裡先藏起來,不讓大家看。


下面是我的『十大夢幻未訪之地』:
10. 玻利維亞 (Bolivia): 南美洲去了三次,巴西,阿根廷,烏拉圭,巴拉圭,智利,祕魯,厄瓜多都去了。哥倫比亞和委內瑞拉離美國近很多,以後要去並不困難。那還有哪國‧‧‧對了玻 利維亞還沒去。最近才看了以玻利維亞為背景的最新一集 007電影『量子危機』,裡面的玻利維亞還蠻荒涼美麗的 (雖然也被它演的既貧窮又腐敗)。除了全世界最高的首都拉巴斯 (La Paz)及市區外下山的『全世界最危險的公路』外,我最想去的是烏尤里鹽原 (Uyuli Salt Flat)及全市界最高的城市,因盛產銀而改變了歐陸列強歷史的 Potosi。有機會,也要回到多年沒看到的的的喀湖 (Largo Titicaca,之前只看過祕魯那邊的湖景)。但玻利維亞地勢奇高,動輒標高就三,四千公尺。曾在祕魯得過高山症,病得很慘的我,一想到就有些裹足不前。看來要去之前,還勢必得再練一下身體了!
9. 智利的復活節島 (Easter Island): 持平停在第九名。2006年去智利玩了一個星期, 其實只去了中部的精華地帶。智利北邊的沙漠區及南邊的峽灣區我都沒玩到。其實智利我最嚮往的是離南美洲本土數千公里,離聖地牙哥(智利首都)都得飛五個多 小時,與世隔絕,位於南太平洋深處的『復活節島』。只有數千名太平洋島民的復活節島,最有名的當然就是大頭石像“摩艾”(Moai)了。頭也很大的我當然 希望有機會能去復活節島拜訪一下這些可能是我的遠房親戚。可惜飛到復活節島的機票奇貴,現在又住在離南太平洋至少要飛30個小時的中東,短期好像不太可能 去。
8. 古巴 (Cuba): 去了加勒比海幾次,最近一次是 2007年春,每次都是搭郵輪去玩。感覺起來,每個島都看起來差不多,不但觀光化,而且又貴,到處是吃得肥肥的美國觀光客。但古巴因被美國禁運,美國法律 規定美國人不准去,反而使古巴保有了 它原有的特色,而不太觀光化 (雖然聽說還是有不少吃得肥肥的加拿大人)。我也很愛吃古巴菜及聽古巴音樂 (尤其是『樂士浮生錄』- Buena Vista Social Club 的那種樂風),有空該去一去的。再 說了‧‧‧
7. 冰島 (Iceland): 去了歐洲 16次後,真的是幾乎每個歐洲國家都去過了。但冰島也許是因為在歐洲的邊陲地帶,剛好一直沒機會去。當然物價奇貴,也是一直沒去冰島的原因之一。今年冰島 因理財不當,全國破產,冰島幣大崩盤,一下跌了一半以上。等於全世界最貴的國家之一,一下子竟推出跳樓大拍賣。若不是自己的『旅遊大禁』,我大概有長週 末,早就經倫敦飛過去了。好希望,好希望,明年夏天“解禁”時,冰島還沒有漲回來。誰不想去藍色礁湖 (Blue lagoon)露天洗溫泉,在午夜太陽下攀爬美麗火山,看間歇泉呢?

6. 伊朗 (Iran):有時我會開玩笑,學超級沒知識的莎拉‧培林 (Sarah Palin)大媽,說我家公寓看出去就看得到伊朗 (她以為她家看出去,看用力一點就看得到白令海另一邊的俄羅斯)。 Sorry, it is not true。但老實說,本來波斯灣的另一邊就是伊朗。雖然基本上去還是該搭飛機,渡輪並不方便,飛行時間也不會太久。原名為『波斯』(Persia)的伊朗 這幾十年和美國交惡,在西方媒體被醜化得很厲害。其實除了社會風氣比較保守,全國禁酒,女人都要帶頭巾外,對於去旅行的觀光客應該不會有什麼危險。我一直 想去看伊斯蘭古城伊斯法罕 (Isfahan)及舍利子 (Shiraz),也想到裏海 (Caspian Sea)海濱漫步。最遺憾的是夢幻般的山城巴姆 (Bam)已在 2003年的大地震全毀,除一起帶走了數萬生靈外,也永遠修復不了。因此,旅行的夢,真的是要趁早實現啊!
5. 中亞五國 (Central Asia):前蘇聯的領土,也在我目前居住的地區附近。今年持平停在第五 名。中亞五國:哈薩克 (Kazakhstan),烏茲別克 (Uzbekistan),吉爾濟斯 (Kyrgyzstan),塔吉克 (Tajikistan),及土庫曼 (Turkmenistan) 都是回教風味濃厚的國家。除了塔吉克好像局勢仍不穩外,土庫曼的獨裁者最近剛死,也許新的統治者會比較開放。不過這些國家的簽證都很囉唆就是了。
 4. 外高加索三小國 (The Caucasus):升到第四名。還是該稱『外高加索六小國』?(反正現在 Nagorno-Karabakh,Akhbazia 及 South Osset都有愈來愈多國家承認了)。前蘇聯的波羅地海三小國及有歐洲的『火藥庫』之稱的巴爾幹半島都 去過了,現在反而是前蘇聯的另外『三小國』─ 外高加索三小國:喬治亞 (Georgia),亞美尼亞 (Armenia),亞塞拜然 (Azerbaijan),開始教我興趣盎然,而盼能有機會一遊。一度由曼谷搭日班機前往慕尼黑,飛越景色壯觀的高加索山。理論上不算是歐洲的外高加索區 (高加索山以南該算是亞洲了),在蘇聯瓦解後,政局甚不安定。小小喬治亞出了兩個叛變,自行獨立的共和國 Akhbazia 及 South Ossetia。亞美尼亞及亞塞拜然則為了『黑山花園領地』 (Nagorno-Karabakh) 打個沒完。2008 年八月,喬治亞屆奧運開幕,全世界焦點移開,竟進攻 South Ossetia。結果被俄羅斯以『保護俄國僑民』為由出兵喬治亞,把『小喬』修辱了一頓。因局勢不穩 (俄國的車臣自治國也在高加索山區),這一帶觀光客好像一直不太多。也因為這樣,我更想去看一看了。
3. 南極洲 與 巴塔哥尼亞 (The Antarctica and Southern Patagonia):2006年去阿根廷,拜訪了巴塔哥尼亞高原 的北半部, 卻沒到更荒蕪的南半部。其實南美洲非常有名,而且很壯觀的墨雷諾冰河及三峰 Torre del Paine國家公園,都在南巴塔哥尼亞。也很想一路搭車到南美最南端的火地島(Tierra del Fuego),然後由烏秀雅 (Ushuaia) 搭船去南極大陸看企鵝。這樣一趟行程一定很貴 (5000美金跑不了),而且得花很長的時間 (至少四週)。因此可算是個極致的夢幻之旅吧!2010的寒假,有可能去嗎?‧‧‧
2. 印度的拉賈斯坦省 (Rajasthan, India): 如今巴西和阿根廷都去了,印度成了我尚未拜訪的國家中,最大的一國。其實我對自己至今都尚未拜訪此文化古國,也深感遺憾。因為離北美洲非常遙遠,這些年來 一直沒機會去。去印度,最想去的當然是西北部的拉賈斯坦省。拉賈斯坦是最富印度傳統建築的一區。Jaipur, Udaipur, Jodpur, Bikaner, 及 Jaiselmer,每個古城都教人充滿了嚮往。有塔姬馬哈陵(Taj Mahal)的阿格拉 (Agra) 雖不在此省,但蠻近的。華航由台北有直飛印度首都德里(就在拉賈斯坦省外面) 的航線,所以現在台灣出的印度團很多。可惜行程感覺都太趕。其實由阿聯飛印度,不但近,機票更是便宜。也許明年 『旅遊大禁』一解除,就會馬上飛去德里作個 long weekend trip?
第二名,第三名和去年完全一樣,可見第一名應該也沒變。而且,這第一名的國家,雖然不算真的去過,卻剛好是我『旅遊大禁』可破例的國家之一:因為去年,我的的班機曾在那國家機場停過,那國家技術上因此不算『沒去過的新國家』!

所以我十大夢幻未訪之地的第一名是‧‧‧






















1. 衣索匹亞 (Ethiopia): 沒錯,正是我未完成的非洲夢。 這個我非洲之旅前最想去的非洲國家,卻最後只能在機場停留一小時,連飛機都不能下。以至,到現在都還在感到遺憾。其實衣索匹亞歷史幾乎和埃及一樣的久,而 且是世 界上最古老的基督教國度之一,有不少古蹟可看 (包括 Lalibela 著名的岩洞教堂,早在 1980年就以被 UNESCO 欽定為人類文化遺產)。在 Bahar Dar,藍色尼羅河的源頭,有壯觀的大瀑布可看; 在衣國西南部的歐摩谷地 (Omo Valley),則可看到各種奇特的部族 (包括和泰北的『長頸族』一樣獨特的『大嘴族』)。東部則有『回教第四大聖地』的哈喇 (Harar)。再加上我也愛吃衣索匹亞菜及喝衣索匹亞蜜酒 Tej ,到原產地去吃一定更道地 (但可能得小心拉肚子)。這一年認識了些網友,都去過衣索匹亞自助旅行。從前在 Intrepid 東南亞行的澳洲室友今年還以 70 高齡,一個人去衣索匹亞自助旅行 (但聽說他坐車坐得骨頭都要散了,幾乎撐不下去),因此,也比較令我克服了不太敢一個人去太落後的地方旅行的恐懼。
沒錯,我終於決定了,2009 年一月寒假將去衣索匹亞!現在正在排行程中。

就像我那時自己寫的:
『我會回到 衣索匹亞,我會回到非洲‧‧‧

原來,在百國達成後,關於旅行的夢,仍無止境』


以上是我的十個最想去但還沒去過的地方,你的 Top 10 又是哪裡呢?
=========================================================

2008年12月29日 星期一

『全球最愛 50大城市總排行 ─ 2008年版』之七《完結篇》:第 5 到第 1名


是的,終於在 2008年將結束前,到達這最後的前五名了。先警告大家一下,最後的前五名大概會引起不少爭議,尤其是他們在多數的外國旅遊雜誌票選中,除了某居民超跩的 法語城市外,這五個城市多沒有在前幾名。為什麼我會這麼喜歡它們呢?說穿了 (而且說的肉麻一些),我剛好在我人生轉折,最脆弱,最沒人扶持的時刻,和這些城市“相遇”,而它們也提供了我心靈的避風港,甚至重新點燃了我對人生的希 望。也許同樣的景,同樣的行程,你們去了,卻完全感受不到我的撼動。因此,我的前五名,只能算是我私人的心情百寶箱,在這裡與你們分享。也希望你們能從同 樣的城市,得到屬於你們自己的感動,譜寫自己和那個城市獨有的樂章。

廢話少說,我的 Top 5 of the World are.....

5. 庫斯科, 祕魯 (Cuzco, Peru - including nearby Sacred Valley, Inca Trail, and yes, Machu Picchu): 我去過的一百多國中,如果有人要我選一個最喜歡的國家,我也許仍會毫不思索的說: 『祕魯』。明年四月,距我上回 (其實也是唯一一回)拜訪祕魯,就剛好滿十年了。 1999年是個悲喜交集的一年,不到 30歲拿到博士學位,卻在拿到博士學位後是長久的失業,以及一場終生難忘,噩夢般的畢業典禮。 那一年的祕魯之旅,是給自己的畢業禮物,在人生開始急轉直下,厄運連連前,最後的美好時光。永遠難忘的是,兩種文化交融,卻又如此自然揉合的庫斯科的印加 及西班牙文化;庫斯科附近,印加聖谷的靜謐怡人,印加小徑的柳暗花明,以及最後到達馬丘比丘時,面對整個高聳卻沉寂的安第斯山時的感動。雖然庫斯科本身並 不是令人眼花撩亂的國際大都會,天黑後有的地方可能還很危險 (我 2006年的南美洲團就有團有在庫斯科被搶),但庫斯科 +印加聖谷 +印加小徑 + 馬丘比丘,真是是喜愛旅行的人,一輩子一定要至少拜訪一次的地方。要親自看到馬丘比丘,才能了解到自己的渺小。


祕魯相關遊記:

祕魯之旅舊相簿:

4. 巴黎,法國 (Paris, France) : 花都巴黎獲得第四名,老實說,會有任何人覺得排太高了嗎 (除非是當年投給小布希的美國人)?花都的浪漫及美妙的形象其實早以深固人心,儘管我去了五次,感覺還有太多的東西沒看到。在那裡,處處是博物館及書店, 隨便找餐廳吃都很好吃 (而且好吃的餐廳其實也沒想像中貴)。當然巴黎人會打扮,懂得裝扮自己,因此走在巴黎街上,總覺得路人也都看來很賞心悅目。雖然巴黎從來不曾是我心靈『避 風港』過,但把它放在第四名,覺感當之無愧。

巴黎去了太多次,反而好像很少為她寫遊記,或製作網頁相簿?目前只找得到這篇2002年的英文遊記:
A Place in My Heart II - Je T'aimerai pour Toujous2005年第五度拜訪時的簡陋相簿

其實,巴黎並不是我全世界最喜歡的法語城市。




那‧‧‧我最喜歡的法語城市是?






3.蒙特婁,加拿大 (Montreal, Canada): 什麼?! 我喜歡蒙特婁勝過巴黎? 沒錯!因為它也在我人生的某個階段,提供了一個心靈的『避風港』。有一年的暑假,因不能住美國,最後在蒙特婁大學的宿舍住了兩個月。那時什麼也沒做,每天 走在街上,看招牌及菜單多認些法文字。冬天冷得很恐怖的蒙特婁,夏天卻街頭慶典多得不勝枚舉。又是蒙特婁爵士音樂祭 (Montreal Jazz Music Festival),『博你一笑』喜劇節 (Just for Laugh Festival),國際煙火大會串 (International Firework Competition),蒙特婁法語系歌唱大會串 (Les FrancoFolies de Montreal),及『“狂想”科幻恐怖片電影節』(Fantasia Film Festival) 。整個夏天,光是文化活動,就忙個沒完。而蒙特婁的 party scene,不只是加拿大第一,著名 DJ 很多,在全北美洲應該也有前五名。再加上繭居蒙城的那一年,加幣特別不值錢 (1加元 = 21台幣左右),也因此覺得蒙特婁真是便宜又大碗的好地方。此外,也許是法語文化影響,感覺蒙特婁人比其他北美洲人都會打扮,走在街頭,也覺得心情特別 好。很巧地,蒙特婁是我全加拿大第一個拜訪的城市 (因為多年前在波士頓讀書時,去蒙特婁比其他加拿大城市都近)。這麼多年後,Montreal remains my No. 1 Canadian city...可惜我一向和最愛無緣,雖然在蒙城找了一陣子工作,卻一無所獲。只留下一個長夏的美好回憶,伴隨一生。

蒙特婁,竟也沒什麼數位相簿及中文遊記,只有一篇 2002年重訪時寫的遊記:
A Place in My Heart - Je me Souvient
現在愈來愈接近第一名了。不過,在這裡先結算一下:在我的 Top 50 中, 歐洲城市佔了 24.5席 (伊斯坦堡因分跨歐亞大陸,因此算半席),可見我真的是很喜歡歐洲。但若以單一國家來算,幅員廣闊,我又住了很多年的美國在前 50年佔了八席,算是喜愛城市最多的國家。
而我的前兩名,一個來自歐洲,另一個則來自美國...



2. 柏林,德國 (Berlin, Germany):
從小時候的中文課本讀到鍾梅 音的『西柏林,這孤島』時,就對柏林這因歷史的詭弔被一分為二的城市充滿嚮往。1995年首度拜訪柏林時,圍牆已經被敲倒快六年,兩德也已經統一快五年 了。經由溫‧溫得斯的『慾望之翼』 (Wings of Desire),感覺對柏林的印象一直停在圍牆分隔,冷硬肅殺 (猶如片中的黑白色調)的 1980年代。90年代中的柏林,到處都在敲敲打打,像件未完品。而當時對人生還充滿希望,卻也很不確定自己未來的我,選擇到柏林的青年工作營去度過了我 人生中另個青黃不接的階段。那是個炎熱,愜意,但美好的夏天。和柏林一別九年,已經變得老成,事故的我為了躲避美國長假的寂寞,一個人在十一月來到了寒冷 的柏林,第一次體驗了歐洲的冬天。這個城市,有著殘酷過往拉扯輒輾的軌跡,卻又是如此自得地,不在乎目前經濟的殘破;作為財經無力的一個之都,卻也懂得笑 看政客的醜態。一個在20世紀,短短百年內就經歷了五次歷史劇變的古城,也許比別的城市都了解要如何放開心胸,不要頻回顧過去而踟躕不前,但又把過往錯 誤,掛在嘴邊的談笑風生,不願遺忘。這樣的態度,一直都好像是我希望向柏林看齊的一點。這不是個漂亮的城市,歷史也留下了太多的殘痕。但無論如何,這都是 世上最特別,最難忘的城市之一。有時,歷經太多事故,人生犯下太多不能挽回錯誤的我,也很希望能有柏林的生活態度:I also want to say "Ich bin Berliner!" (我也是柏林人...).
相關文章:

『柏林遺往』
『聖誕節市集』 及刊在東森新聞/NOWnews.com 的版本:『玩家經驗/分手的冬天 啜飲柏林的溫暖』
個人網站上的柏林相簿:
柏林圍牆之東邊藝廊特輯
柏林搜酷(So Cool)頁
刊在英文旅遊網站 BootsNAll.com 上的英文遊記:
『You're Still the One』

柏林從 2004年冬的那次重訪開始,就一直是我的第一名。但現在卻掉到第二名,所以,我有了新的第一名?




那新的第一名是‧‧‧




 你記得2008年11月5號台北時間的早晨 (美國中部標準時間晚上九點多),你在哪裡嗎? I wish I were there....in that park


 和數十萬人一起慶祝某歷史盛事‧‧‧



 第一名的城市是‧‧‧

 

1. 芝加哥,美國 (Chicago, USA): 1992年第一次去芝加哥,過了幾乎 15年,芝加哥才首度進到我的 Top 10。今年,也許是趕 歐巴馬熱潮吧,因來自芝加哥的 Obama象徵著“改變”及“希望”,而這也是 2008年的我,最需要,也終於得到的兩樣無形的東西。因此在 2008即將結束時,芝加哥打敗柏林,首度成為我全球最愛城市的第一名!



當 然,我對芝加哥的情感,遠比歐巴馬及他所象徵的種種,來的複雜太多。為了一段沒有結果的感情,多年來,我放假常往芝加哥跑。2004正式放棄這個可能後, 卻陰錯陽差地在 2006年秋,人生另一段超級低潮時,為了幫朋友看家,成為芝加哥的居民,竟通勤於芝加哥與紐約之間。因紐約,舊金山,波士頓的種種人生失意,以及巴爾地 摩及費城的無趣及治安敗壞,當時的我,已對美國徹底失望,決定在 2007年教的課結束後,永久遷離美國。卻因在芝加哥那段時間經歷的人與事,對這國家重新燃起希望。也因『芝加哥蟄伏時期』的少量收入,但更少的房租支 出,極大部分的時間有空閒在咖啡廳作夢,寫遊記投稿,及安排別的旅途,間接促成了 2007年春的『破百國非洲之旅』。For me, Chicago really symbolized "change" and "hope"。2008年夏,首度在夏天拜訪芝加哥,終於體會到了這有嚴冬的城市,在盛夏時節更懂得盡量享用的歡愉。基本上,紐約有的,芝加哥都有:高聳 入雲,造型別緻的摩天樓,收藏豐富的各式博物館,美麗的沙灘步道 (雖然這裡是湖濱,不是海濱),便捷的大眾交通系統,來自世界各地的移民而帶來的各式美食,及多樣選擇的夜生活‧‧‧但這裡又比紐約便宜,人民也比紐約友 善。有的人稱芝加哥是『New York Light』,我到覺得是 『New York Improved』

因此,在此正式公告: Chicago is my NO.1 City in the world! I support for the Olympics in Chicago in 2016!全力支持芝加哥 2016 申奧運成功

Top 50 的倒數到此告一段落,在此祝大家新年快樂了!



《全系列完》
===================================
After doing the countdown for the past few months, finally we get to this point: The Final Five. It's like the TV show "American Idol" (though there is only one American city in the Top 5...)
Overall, in my Top 50, European cities occupy almost half of the seats. With 24.5 (Istanbul counts as half an European city, mind you) out of top 50 destinations are European, it is definitely my favorite continent in the world. With 8 cities in the final 50, United States is the country occupies more spots than any other single country. But ironically, my former top cities like New York and Boston are not even in Top 50 (due to "personal deduction"). However, at the end, one American city does get to the Final 5 and doing very, very well. Talking about a year all of us really need are "hope" and "change" and "yes, we can"....

The following is my Top 5 favorite destinations in the world...

5. Cuzco, Peru (including nearby Sacred Valley, Inca Trail, and yes, Machu Picchu): To be exact, Peru is also my favorite country in the world and I definitely think this region should be the first choice for anybody who plan a visit to South America for the first time (yes, Peru is the first South American country I visited). Compared to Antigua in Guatemala (another Top Latin American city for me), Cuzco is an even more beautiful and cultural place. Even the nearby sacred valley of Inca offers a lot of activities to choose: white water rafting along Urubamba River (part of Amazonian system); shopping for Incan crafts at Pisac Sunday market; wandering through less famous Incan sites such as Sacsayhuaman and Ollantaytambo. Of course, no experience can rival that of trekking on Inca Trail, passing by Huinay Huayna, to reach Intipunku (Sun Gate) and have the first encounter with Machu Picchu. Yes, even a person as cynic as me would say: "This is the trip of lifetime!"

My writing about Cuzco and Machu Picchu:
Silence of the Andeans (in Chinese)

Photo album:


4. Paris, France : I guess few people would object that I list Paris in my Top 5 (aside from some millions of Bush-supporters). One of the most beloved and romantic cities in the world, it does have numerous great sites of interest and world-class museums. The best of all, you can rarely go wrong to eat in this city (even the Chinese and Indian restaurants are good). Just some advice, learn some French! You cannot blame people being rude while you don't even try to learn a little bit of their language...

Mmm...I cannot believe that I don't have a special page of photo album devoted to Paris. Okay, there is a travelogue I wrote back in 2002 about Paris:
A Place in My Heart II - Je T'aimerai pour Toujous

3. Montreal, Canada: What?! Montreal ranks higher than Paris? Yes, I actually like this "second largest French speaking city in the world" more. It is a North American city with an European heart, while constantly is confused with its own identity and direction (I can very much relate to that personally). Still struggling to define itself, as the province of Quebec cannot decide it is "Canadian" or not, the bilingual Montreal has actually turned into a multicultural mosaic like Toronto and Vancouver (thanks to Canada's open-door immigration policy). Will it remain a part of Canada? Let's hope so....

Mmm...just like Paris, I also don't have a special page of photo album devoted to Montreal. But there is a travelogue I wrote back in 2002 about Montreal:
A Place in My Heart - Je me Souvient
Next....My No. 2 city in the world was No.1 for 4 years. Now it falls to No. 2...



2. Berlin, Germany:
For a history buff like me, Germany's "former" but also "new" capital is the most fascinating city in our time. It had morphed 5 times in the past 100 years alone. Even after entering 21st century, Berlin still hasn't stopped its process of metamorphoses. Now the avant-garde art and nightlife center of the new integrated Europe, Berlin still remains a bargain destination. Your Euro (or pounds or CN$, and yes, maybe even US$) can still go further here than many other European cities. For architecture buffs, many interesting modern building can be found here. And after 2009, the Museum Island Complex will become the largest museum complex in the world. I have long been aware Berlin is a fun place to visit while most of the world still did not know. Unfortunately, after last year's World Cup, the secret is out....After visiting this city 6 times in the past 12 years, I also want to say "Ich bin Berliner!" (no "ein" here...).

My most recent BootsNAll.com article: "You Are Still The One"
and
An older article The Lost Past of Berlin (in Chinese)
Photo Album Well...it is Chinese only sorry...

So what is the BIG NO. ONE among them all....after all? Yes, I have a new No. 1 now! Isn't it great that finally this year, Time Magazine's "Person of the Year" is some guy most of us all like? And yes, he hails from my No. 1 city in the world - a city I first visited back in 1992 but took me so long to start liking it. Now, it is my favorite city in the world....








My No. 1 is....






1. Chicago, USA: A city I called it home when I was in one of the lowest period in my life. Nothing went right in that period, except anything related to "travel". However, my Chicago days offered me opportunities to write, to be creative, to recoonect with many other aspects of my life. Now looking back in that 2006-2007 miserable period, Chicago actually reignited my hope - hope about the possibility of still living in the US and still enjoying it, hope that had been extiguished after the fiasco in my New York days. Interestingly, more than a year later, someone started his career in this city actually brings hope to the whole country.
It is called "second city" though in my mind it is no second to any other in the US. It is a highly culturally rich and ethnically diverse city, but still manages to be much cheaper and less arrogant than cities on both coasts. Sometimes, even its polital scandal looks amusing and entertaining. Of course, there are always prices to pay for some place this good: yes, the winter is very harsh...

So that is it...Finally I finish it! Another round of Top 50 right before the end of 2008.
Hopefully, everybody have a great travel year ahead in 2009!....

2008年12月28日 星期日

『全球最愛 50大城市總排行 ─ 2008年版』之六:第10到第6名


終於,倒數了這麼多天,現在終於到了前十大。所以,羅馬 (Rome),倫敦(London),巴塞隆納 (Barcelona)都沒有前十名,西方人很愛,在好幾個雜誌評選都有 Top 10 的曼谷(Bangkok),開普敦 (Cape Town),布宜諾斯艾利斯 (Buenos Aires)也沒進我的前十名。而紐約 (New York),東京(Tokyo),杜拜 (Dubai)更慘,甚至連我的 Top 50 都沒進。那麼,我的前十名到底是何方神聖?

為了吊大家胃口,在這裡只揭曉第 10 到第 6名。最後的前五名,則得等明天或後天才會揭曉了。


10. 里約熱內盧,巴西 (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil - including Costa Verde and resort town Paraty)
: 2006年初的南美洲之旅,終站來到這裡,剛好趕上了一年一度的嘉年華活動,不但看了幾場鬧熱滾滾的街頭遊行,還去『森巴巨蛋』看了八小時的歌舞大會串, 看到虛脫。其實,里約有山有水,風景優美,一年四季氣候溫和,因此就算是七,八月 (他們的冬天)拜訪,沒嘉年華活動可看,也沒什麼不好的 (那時候,可能旅館費還比較便宜一些)。不過巴西貧富不均嚴重,治安敗壞,去年還有一整車英國遊客一出機場,就全車被搶。因此大家到里約去,特別要小心。 不過白天在人多的街上走,應該是沒問題的。

我寫的,和里約有關的遊記:

若要看刊在此部落格上,比較詳細的里約介紹:
帕拉七 及翡翠海岸 
在里約當海灘遊俠 
里約市中心的前衛建築
品嘗麵包山的美景
上駝背山看巨大耶穌像
里約 的『野花村』
美不勝收的嘉年華會森巴大會串

遊艇一覽里約灣


9. 伊斯坦堡,土耳其 (Istanbul, Turkey): 跨歐亞兩大洲,有兩千多年歷史的古城。因為第一次就住了三天三夜,遊歷的比較徹底,也因此排名比其他只是走馬看花的城市高很多。所以,同時經歷基督教文化 及伊斯蘭文化洗禮的伊斯坦堡,到底該算亞洲還是歐洲呢?因為歐洲國家不想讓土耳其加入歐盟 (當然,同時也夾雜了歐洲基督徒對回教的歧視),他們總說土耳其是『亞洲』國家,但對來自東亞的我,覺得伊斯坦堡明明就是歐洲啊!其實感覺土耳其比中東的 回教國家的開放自由的多,古蹟多,東西又好吃 (只是有很多是鹹了些),人民也算是蠻友善的。如果大家有機會去,伊斯坦堡至少得待三,四天以上。向我自己都希望以後能再藉著開會,或去搭郵輪的機會,重 訪這和羅馬一樣,同樣蓋在七個山丘上的迷人古城。
相簿:一直沒完成,只完成了這頁:『伊斯坦堡的著名歷史建築 


8. 慕尼黑,德國 (Munich, Germany): 連續幾年都在十一,十二名左右徘徊的慕尼黑,今年終於因我今年九月為了『十月啤酒節』(Oktoberfest)再度前往拜訪,印象仍是超好,一下擠進了 前十 (這也使得德國現在有兩個國家在我的 Top 10)。其實,慕尼黑可以算是德國的國際大城中,最漂亮的,而且因為難得巴伐利亞的民情,這裡的人感覺也比較友善,不向一般的德國人如此不茍言笑。而且慕 尼黑接近阿爾卑斯山,要去山裡滑雪,登山健行也都很方便。往南兩小時,就到了德國最有名的童話般古堡 ─ 『新天鵝堡』 (Neuschwannstein),不然,兩小時也可以帶你到奧地利的薩爾茲堡 (Salzburg),去拜訪莫札特的故鄉。
 這些年,去了慕尼黑四,五次,因此照片還算多:

慕尼黑 及 巴伐利亞鄉間

奧地利的 薩爾茲堡

中歐的聖誕節市集,包括慕尼黑的市集


7. 溫哥華大都會區,加拿大 (Vancouver, Canada - Including Whistler, Victoria and some other towns on Vancouver Island): 在加拿大住過一陣子的我,因為主要就是住在溫哥華,因此溫哥華猶如我的『第二故鄉』(不過我的第二故鄉好像業太多了一些 ;p)。四處山水環繞的溫哥華,一向是亞洲人移民加拿大的最愛去處,以至不少台灣人或香港人都至少有一兩個親戚朋友住在溫哥華。但卻也由於溫哥華華人太 多,我一些 (台灣)朋友反而對溫哥華看得很不順眼,直說那裡和台港差不多,沒什麼拜訪的必要;不然就說那裡華人太多,所以一定水準不高‧‧等一類充滿歧視的話。其實 溫哥華畢竟是加拿大第三大城,而加拿大的多元文化融合其實比美國還成功。因此溫哥華也不難感受到來自其他亞洲國家,拉丁美洲,甚至東歐移民的文化。往北到 威仕樂 (Whistler),是加拿大第一滑雪勝地,一路風景優美,猶如挪威峽灣。可惜溫哥華工作太難找,不然我是很想在那裡定居的。搬離溫哥華後,又遷居了很 多個城市,但還是沒放棄,也許以後退休搬回那裡的可能。

不過老實說,溫哥華其實並不是我加拿大最喜歡的城市。那麼,加拿大還有個城市,在我的 Top 5‧‧‧?

很多,很多年前,第一次去溫哥華時,寫的英文遊記
 

6. 京都,日本 (Kyoto, Japan): 2008年躍升最大的城市,不但是全日本,也是全亞洲排名最高的城市。在今年四月去賞櫻後,我終於了解台灣的一堆『哈日族』的心情了,也了解為什麼誠品的 旅遊叢書架上,關於京都的書會多到令人頭痛。京都真的是日本最令人喜歡的城市,處處都是傳統,卻又如此怡然自得而不作做。明明是現代化大都會,不少地方處 處高樓,在古建築中卻又不讓人覺得喧賓奪主。我拜訪時又剛好是櫻花盛開時節,因此特別有興味。那次因為住大阪,過境又只待三天不到,總覺得這第二次去京 都,還是想看的大多都沒看到。下回一定得找機會再去,而且要吃到湯豆腐

2008年去京都的照片,以後再詳細整理...

所以,終於到了最後五大了。到底哪些城市是我的最愛?到底哪個城市又會是最後的 No. 1 呢?

答案即將在 2008 結束前揭曉...

=============================================================
English Version (英文版):


10. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (including Costa Verde and resort town Paraty): First visited in 2006, so I still have quite fresh memories about this city. Its beautiful setting is on par with Vancouver and San Francisco. However, it is not as overpriced and foggy as San Fran and definitely not as wet and cloudy as Vancouver. With its tropical location, it is beach going weather almost everyday in Rio. It also has some of the most beautiful denizens on earth. Unfortunately, just like many cities I love, it is not a very safe city to wander around by yourself at night. But using precaution, it should be fine. 

My recent photo album of Rio de Janeiro


9. Istanbul, Turkey: The only major city that lies on two different continents. It is also one of the most fascinating and historic cities of mankind. Though most Europeans do not consider it European. For me, it is definitely more European than Asian. It is beautiful and joyful to just wandering around (just like many Southern European cities). After Turkey's recent economic boom, it is also much easier to walking around without getting hassling. Try their rice in mussels if you have opportunities.

Istanbul Photo Album Mmm...I haven't finished most of them. So this (Chinese language) one is the only one I can show you at this moment...

8. Munich, Germany:Finally moved back to my Top 10 after staying at around No. 11 or No. 12 for several years. This year's visit for its craziest festival - Oktoberfest - definitely helps. However, with or without Oktoberfest, I do still really enjoy each visit to Munich. It is poshed, clean, slightly pricey (but nowhere near New York or even Washington DC), and maybe have most friendly people in Germany. Great beer halls and good gateway to some nice mountain towns/ski resorts in the south. And yes, New Swan Castle (Neuschwannstein) can be accessed from here. Photo of Munich from my 2005 trip

Photo album of facebook: 2008 Oktoberfest Diary

7. Vancouver, Canada - Including Whistler, Victoria and some other towns on Vancouver Island: Sort of like my "second hometown," I've lived there for sometime in late 20 century. Its topographical setting is stunning and mesmerizing. Though it rains a lot, its ever changing cloud and light patterns actually makes its ambiance more interesting. Due to Canada's more open-door immigration policy, Vancouver becomes possibly the most culturally diverse city in the West Coast of the whole American continent. It definitely has the best Asian restaurants outside of Asia. Taking ferry west, in three hours, you can reach the English-flavor town of Victoria. Where the Royal British Columbian Museum is one of the best in Canada. Traveling north, passing through fjords and waterfalls, you can reach Whistler, one of the most beloved ski resorts in North America.

Come 2010, when the Winter Olympic Game will be hold in Vancouver and Whistler, all eyes will be on this beautiful city. Have you booked your trip there yet?
 
6. Kyoto, Japan: The highest ranked city in Asia. And after a re-visit in April 2008 (just in time for cherry blossom), Kyoto moves back to my Top 10.  No doubt, it is the most delicate and interesting city in Japan. There are so many beautiful temples and nice park (with famed Japanese "dry landscape" garden) in this ancient city. It is also more relaxing than other Japanese big cities, such as Tokyo and Osaka. Actually, I will say, among all the Asian cities with ancient history, Kyoto is the most comfortable in its skin living with both tradition and modernity.

So the grand finale is coming. Guess which continent may almost have it all? Which city would eventually be my Top city among them all? A formerly divided city that evolved into the avant-gard art center? A city of two solitudes? THE city of light? Or...the city that just brought us change and audacity of hope?

Til' next time...

2008年12月27日 星期六

『全球最愛 50大城市總排行 ─ 2008年版』之五:遺珠之憾




在開始介紹我的 Top 10 之前,我想先在這裡介紹一下我的『遺珠』。沒錯,下面這些城鎮都沒進我的前50 名。有的城市沒進,對它們粉絲 (fans)來說,可能很荒繆。可是本來就每個人喜好不同,很難互相迎合。另外,有的城鎮是因太久沒去,雖然第一次去時很喜歡,但現在幾乎沒什麼感覺了, 因此沒進 Top 50; 另外有的城鎮是上次去沒玩好,其實有機會仍希望重訪。

此外,先在這裡聲明,所有的中國城市,包括上海,北京,南京,西安,我全部沒去過 (中國只去過廣州,而且一點也不喜歡那裡)。因為沒去過,所以也沒辦法排進榜。不是因為政治問題故意不排中國城市進 Top 50,不要想太多。

下面就是我的『遺珠』名單:

《註》因打字太慢 (我中文內容得比英文多花至少五倍的時間打字),目前先只放英文的。有機會在補充中文版的描述‧‧‧

Before I reveal my Top 10 Favorite places in the world, first, let me reveal the list of cities that are among the favorites by many travelers (or at least those who vote in some travel magazines' surveys) but were NOT selected into my Top 50. Yes, I did pay a visit to these places before (it's not like Kinshasa or Karachi, which I REALLY have never been to). And there are reasons why they are not in my Top 50. Yes, there are some really big shockers here....

- 杜拜及阿布達比,阿拉伯聯合大公國 (Dubai and Abu Dhabi,United Arab Emirates): 沒有,杜拜這個很多人都很想去的『明日之都』,真的沒有在我的前 50名。No, the city of the most "superlatives" in the first decade of 21st century is not in my Top 50, even though I just moved to this country and travel there pretty much on monthly basis. It is ambitious and impressive, but how should I put it? It still lacks a soul. And also, the whole city of Dubai is like a giant (and unfinished) theme park. Traffic jam is very bad and so many constructions make driving around also difficult; its public transportation requires more improvement than Los Angeles and Atlanta. Hopefully, when many projects finish and Dubai's first metrorail line opens in 2009, thing will get better! As to its weathier and (definitely) less galmorous older sister, Abu Dhabi (the capital of U.A.E), well, I don't have any bad thing to say about it. But pretty much that's what I feel about it.

- 佛羅倫斯,義大利 (Florence, Italy)
: As Rome, I have only been there once, in 1991, with an unsophisticated Taiwanese tour group. But unlike my stay in Rome, I had only half a day in Florence (Though in that half day, we witnessed a robbery by a motorcyclist, welcome to Italy!). I did not even have time to walk to see the exterior of Uffizi Museum! This is the birth place of the Renaissance and I barely even saw anything! I returned to Italy in summer 2007 but stayed only in area near Rimini (Florence is 5 hours away by train). For a city this fascinating, a returned visit is a must (and I will leave at least 3 days for it)!

- 東京,日本 (Tokyo, Japan): Possibly rated as No. 1 by many of my Taiwanese friends (yes, we Taiwanese just love Japan, unlike Chinese...). It is the most prosperous city in Asia and a real world metropolis. But just like most other Asian capitals, it is overcrowded and very stressful. Though I have been traveling through its airport many times in the past 15 years, I haven't really got into the city for more than 20 years. I will need to drop by again to know if I can love it as Hong Kong and Bangkok.
 
- 墨爾本,澳洲 (Melbourne, Australia): Sydney is in Top 50 but Melbourne is not....Sorry about that to some of my Aussi friends! (I know how much you dislike Sydneysiders :P) But I just feel I like Sydney better. Period. But also, last time when in Melbourne I was sick with some digestion problems (another problems when traveling with Taiwanese group - they just feed us too much food! Yes, I am complaining). I didn't get to see much of that city, except those penguins on Phillip Island...
 

- 哥本哈根,奧斯陸及赫爾辛基 (Copenhagen, Oslo, and Helsinki): Why does Stockholm get into Top 50 (No. 16, to be exact) but the other Scandinavian capitals do not? Sorry, Claus Jan, Kjersti, and Nina, I do love your countries no less than Sweden. Though all three cities are all nice, civilized and cultured (and people are all multi-lingual), but then, they are ju1l rust not as beautiful as Stockholm. But I will remember my Danish and Norwegian friends' invitation. After my next return visit, Oslo and Copenhagen should all be in Top 50!
 
- 保加利亞的城鎮 (Cities of Bulgaria): I visited Bulgaria both the summer of 2006 and 2007 and partially witnessed the rapid changes of this lovely country. Sofia, Veliko Tarnovo, and Varna (on Black Sea Coast), they are all good and interesting in very different ways. However, none of them is actually unique enough to grab a Top 50 spot. However, Bulgaria as a whole, I have to speak out that it would definitely rank in my Top 20 countries.
 
- 開羅及魯克索,埃及 (Cairo and Luxor, Egypt): I admire the pyramids and the temples. I even love the anthropological museum in Cairo, but those places are too chaotic to love. I also never like people hassling me all the time and don't take no for answers, which is a constant thing a traveler has to put up with in Egypt. That's why I do appreciate what I saw there but no Egyptian city or town is in my Top 50.
 
- 拉斯維加斯,美國 (Las Vegas, USA): Too artificial, too fake, too soulless....remember the reasons why Dubai is not in Top 50?
 
- 檀香山,美國 (Honolulu, USA): A former Top 5 cities of mine when I was still in my...teens? The first ever US city I have ever visited. Unfortunately, after being away for more than 20 years, I hardly remember anything about it. So, no, it cannot stay in Top 50!
 
- 波士頓,美國 (Boston, USA): Another very high profile and valued US city that is excluded from my list. This was where I went to school when I moved to the US more than 10 years ago (Yes, that big H University). But be honest, I never really enjoyed my experience in Boston. That must have been among the most miserable years in my life. Yes, it is easy to get around by public transportation, and yes, it is very sophisticated, and even relatively multi-cultural. However, I felt people there are very rude and arrogant and it was quite hard to make friends. Definitely one of the most unfriendly cities in the world. So no, it is not in Top 50 and possibly never will be.
 
- 提蛙那,墨西哥 (Tijuana, Mexico): Mmm...Are you joking? It is lucky that it is not in bottom 10 LOL...



And last, but not the least, maybe the biggest shocker of all. One of my former No 1 city now does not even make it to Top 50...


下面這城市,沒進 Top 50,也許對很多人來說,是最大的意外。我在那裡住了三年,我還為她寫了十七帖的回憶錄,但最後我只給它第 51 名,故意不要讓它進 Top 50。這遺珠中的遺珠是‧‧‧




























  紐約市,美國 (New York City, USA): No, NYC is not even in my Top 50. A former No 1 for several years when I only had Top 20 (instead of 50) but now it is officially and solidly out of Top 50. Talking about the effects of "personal deduction"! Judging on many things I feel about New York (culture, food, ease of getting around, etc), it should definitely be in Top 20 (or Top 10 indeed). However, many personal misfortune I experienced in that three years as New Yorker really make it difficult for me to love it without reservation. Don't want to bother you my "tragic affairs" with NYC again and again, just to let you know, it is not in Top 50, mainly for my personal reasons...

So, after another negative round of ranting, now we are off to the No. 10 to No. 6....